Extractor Fan Installation in Surrey & London

What the job involves

A new fan needs three things: a route to the outside, a power supply and a way to control it. The duct goes through an outside wall, a window or the roof via the loft, and is kept as short and straight as possible so the fan can move air properly. The supply is usually taken from the lighting circuit with an isolator, so the fan can be switched off safely for cleaning or repair.

In a bathroom the fan and its controls must suit the zone they sit in. Fans close to a bath or shower need the right level of water protection, and some are low-voltage models fed from a transformer outside the zone.

Signs you need this

• Black mould on the bathroom ceiling or around the window
• Mirrors and windows that stay steamed up long after a shower
• Peeling paint or damp patches on the walls
• Cooking smells and condensation that spread through the house
• An existing fan that is too weak to clear the room

Choosing the right fan

Building Regulations set minimum extraction rates for kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms, so the fan has to be big enough for the room. Beyond that, the choice is about control. A timer overrun keeps it running after the light goes off, a humidity sensor runs it only when the air is damp, and some continuous low-speed fans run quietly all the time. For noisy or failing fans, see fan repairs.

What affects the cost

Fitting a new fan where one already exists is the simplest job. The work grows when a new hole has to be cored through a solid wall, when ducting runs a long way through the loft, or when a new supply and switch are needed. The type of fan matters too: inline fans in the loft, humidity-sensing units and low-voltage models suit different rooms. If the fan needs a new circuit, see wiring installations.